It's been a few years (2004) since we have been to Tonga however we have used the Lonely Planet South Pacific 2009 guide and other sources to check that our information is still current. An overview and photos of Tongatapu and 'Atata Island follow.
The Kingdom of Tonga is made up of over 170 islands, just 37 of those are inhabited. The country is divided into four island groups - Tongatapu, Ha'apai, Vava'u and the Niuas. The main island Tongatapu has a population of approximately 69,000, about two thirds of the population. Nuku'alofa (Abode of Love) is on Tongatapu and it is the nation's capital.
Tonga is a naturally beautiful country with lovely beaches, rainforests, a remote volcano, Mapu'a 'a Vaca blowholes and probably the only place in the world with a “Village of Snorkelling Pigs”. Between July and October whales also arrive to mate and calve in the warm waters. For additional information about Tonga check out Tonga Visitors Bureau, Lonely Planet's thorn tree travel forum and for accommodation reviews check out - www.tripadvisor.com.
Currency - Pa'anga (TOP)
Climate
The wet season runs from November to April and this is also cyclone season however the majority of cyclones occur between January and March. May through October is the best time to visit and the average temperature during this time is approximately 29 degrees celsius.
Basic Greetings
Hello - Malo e leilei
Thank you - Malo
Tongan is the official language but English is widely spoken.
Nuku'alofa
Nuku’alofa is the Kingdom’s industrial and commercial hub as well as the centre of government and home to the Royal family. A variety of eating establishments, government agencies and retail stores are sprinkled around the six or so streets that make up the relaxed town centre. Head out for a walk down Vuna Road and along the water front in the early morning or evening for views across the bay.
The majority of Tonga’s population lives in Nuku’alofa and its surrounding villages. Outside Nuku'alofa the Island is comprised of farm land, small villages, plenty of churches and extensive coastline. As you drive around the Island you will see colourful cottages on large sections full of tropical flowers, abandoned cars, chooks, piglets and children. You’ll pass makeshift kiosks set up by enterprising locals selling coke, chips and tinned food. Outside many houses small groups of women gather around low tables of coconuts, watermelon and vegetables combining enterprise with chat and laughter.
Talamahu Market, Salote Road (Monday-Saturday, early morning - 4.30pm)
A visit to this market is not to be missed. Coconuts, pineapples, taro and other fruit and vegetables spill around groups of women and children on the ground floor. Upstairs you will find woven mats and baskets, handbags, trays, jewellery, clothing and more. Please note: Bargaining is not practiced in Tonga, it will be considered ill-mannered if you ask for a discount.
Tongan National Centre www.tongaholiday.com
You can take a tour to see demonstrations of tapa making, weaving, basketry, traditional dancing and carving. The Centre also offers a dinner show on Tuesdays and Thursdays that includes a Tongan feast accompanied by traditional dance and music. Entrance to the Centre is free (tours cost around T$15).
Tongan Feast and Traditional Dance
Lonely Planet currently recommends Oholei Beach and Hina Cave Feast and Show - http://oholeibeachresort.com. The dinner show at the Tongan National Centre (above) is also well worth considering.
The pictures below are from a feast and traditional dance show we attended at the Good Samaritan Inn.
Island Tour
The Island of Tongatapu is small enough that you can see the majority of sights on a day tour. We did a great tour organised by Heilala Lodge. The trip included visits to the following:
Mapu’a ‘a Vaca blow holes
The blow holes are located near Houma, around 14 kilometres from the town centre. As waves break, sea water is pushed up through vents in coral terraces sending jets of water surging toward the sky. The blow holes stretch around five kilometres of coastline, when the sea is rough the water can shoot up to 30 metres in the air.
Captain Cook’s Landing Site (Holonga village)
Legend has it that Captain Cook visited the Islands in the 1770s on more than one occasion. In 1777 he is said to have anchored the Endeavour in a lagoon near Holonga village and had a nap under a banyan tree. Due to the agreeable nature of the people he met on his journey Captain Cook is known for labeling Tonga “The Friendly Islands”. Legend has it though that when Captain Cook visited in 1777 various nobles were arguing over who should have the opportunity to attack his vessel and kill off the sailors. Had he been aware of this he may well have been less complimentary about the Island and its inhabitants.
Lunch
On the way to the Royal Tombs we stopped at a road side stall to purchase coconuts, watermelon, bananas and pineapple for lunch. The fruit was set up on a table outside a family home and a toot on the horn brought someone out to take the money - not a bad way to do business.
Royal Tombs The tombs have been the burial site for Tongan Royalty since 1893. We were told that in years gone by the village chiefs were also buried here. The practice at the time was that two commoners were chosen to take the chief to the burial ground and were not allowed to return to their village, they had to be buried with him. Fortunately this practice no longer occurs today.
Ha’amonga ‘a Maui Trilithon
Erected in 1200AD (don't quote us on that!) the Trilithon is two large pillars of stone that stand vertically upright supporting a horizontal length of stone. This may not sound like anything extraordinary, but each stone weighs about 40 tonnes. There has long been speculation as to what this structure is however it is now generally accepted that it is used for determining the seasons.
'Anahulu beach & limestone cave When we visited an old ticket office was decaying outside, these days entrance to the cave is free. There are steps carved inside so that you can walk into the humid interior dripping with stalagmites. At the base of the cave is a large pool, only the children in our group were brave enough to swim in it. Take your own torch if you have one.
Kolovai Village - known for its flying foxes (fruit bats)
It’s quite hard to see the bats but if you look closely you’ll see them folded into triangles and hanging from tree branches. During the day they sleep but at dusk they unfurl their wings and fly off in search of fruit to feed on. They are protected as the only land mammal native to Tonga and are the official property of the King.
Talafo’ou - “Village of the Snorkeling pigs”
During our stay on 'Atata Island we saw lone pigs out snorkelling for shell fish but at Talafo'ou we saw whole families out snorkelling for their daily catch.
Our Food and Drink picks Cafe Escape (town centre)
We really liked this modern air conditioned cafe and it still rates with the Lonely Planet writers. There is Internet access here.
Friends Cafe & Tourist Centre, Taufa'ahau Road www.friendstonga.com
This cafe is a a long time favourite with travellers and expats. There is a nice courtyard and a large variety of food to choose from. You can also book tours and accommodation at the tourist centre, and use the Internet - visit their website for details.
International Dateline Hotel, Vuna Road
Food here is expensive but it's a nice place to stop for a drink if you are walking down Vuna Road and along the water front.
Talamahu Market, Salote Road, town centre
The place to purchase coconuts, pineapples, bananas and watermelon.
Self catering
There are a couple of small supermarkets in the town centre. Due to the fact that the majority of packaged foods are imported some items can be quite expensive. A bar of chocolate was NZ$6.95 and a can of baked beans NZ$3, and that was in 2004.
Accommodation Heilala Holiday Lodge www.heilala-holiday-lodge.com (Please note: this property is now closed and is relocating to a beach side location at Ha'atafu. It is expected to re-open between April & June 2010. Check out www.heilala-holiday-lodge.blogspot.com for a progress report.)
We loved this property and they may take their cute fales with them and recreate the tropical oasis. We found the host Sven, really friendly and helpful. He is happy to organise day tours, arrange pick-ups and drop offs, hire cars etc. Once they've re-opened definitely check out their website and www.tripadvisor.com to see what people think of their new digs.
'Atata Island
'Atata Island is 10km from Nuku'alofa and a 30 minute boat ride from the harbour. It is a small island with a fishing village at one end and the Royal Sunset Island Resort at the other. You can walk around the Island to the fishing village however be quiet and considerate if you need to walk through the village.
Royal Sunset Island Resort www.royalsunset.biz
Visit Trip Advisor for the latest reviews of this property. They are not all positive and the biggest issue seems to be that the Resort does not offer value for money, ie. it is too expensive for the experience it provides. Things do change though so check with a travel agent and look out for recent reviews.
The Resort was built in 1985 and it sits in eight acres of garden. Beach-front fales are located on the eastern and western sides of the Island and a fishing village occupies the northern end. Many of the villagers are employed at the resort and also provide entertainment and fresh fish.
The fales have a small wooden verandah, tapa cloth covered walls and wooden floors and furniture. The bathrooms are large and airy and tea and coffee making facilities are provided.
The impressive main fale has a bar and dining area. There is a swimming pool and staff can also arrange fishing, scuba diving and sailing trips.
A BBQ is lit up on Sunday when day trippers visit the Island. Meal packages are available and we recommend that if you don't get a full meal package and you are staying for a few days, you check what food can be purchased on the Island and then shop in Nuku'alofa for provisions before you arrive.
Tips:
- It’s preferable to get a fale on the western side of the Island as winds can whip around the eastern side (although from trip advisor reviews it sounds as though eastern side fales are not available for visitors these days).
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Purchase some snack foods and any other essential items from Nuku’alofa.
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Compare travel agency rates and package deal rates with the prices quoted on their website.
- Take mosquito repellant.
For other island escapes close to Tongatapu you can check out Pangaimotu Island Resort for budget options and Fafa Island for luxury. You can take day trips to both of these islands.
Trivia
The Constitution declares that the Sabbath is sacred, forever. As such business must cease at midnight on Saturday. EVERYTHING is closed on Sunday. We've read that fishing and swimming at the beach is also banned on Sunday and if you are caught doing either of these activities you can be fined or subject to three months hard labour. We don't know how strictly these rules are enforced but pack a book anyway or attend a church service.
It is illegal to not wear a shirt in public.
From 1984 to 1998 it was possible to purchase Tongan passports and citizenship for US$20,000. Imelda Marcos is said to have purchased a passport along with many other people from China, Taiwan and Hong Kong. These new passport holders may also have thought they could get easy access to New Zealand, Australia and the United States however these countries chose not accept the fee paying passport holders across their borders. Selling citizenship was a scheme masterminded by the previous King of Tonga and it proved successful in generating a considerable amount of money. However the King was persuaded by an American to invest the majority of the funds in some dubious US companies. The money disappeared but many “new” citizens now call Tonga home.
Yams are the most expensive food in Tonga, 5 yams will cost you around NZ$80.
You will find over 500 churches in Tonga.
If you see a London black cab give a Royal wave, it’s probably the King inside.
If you want to drink the milk from a coconut apparently you can only open one of the three holes on the nut, try the hole on the biggest third.
Tonga produces its own coffee, have a cup of Royal Coffee at Friends Cafe.
